scmorgan A Gringuita in Costa Rica: Expat Reflections from the Free Zone

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Monthly archive: January, 2009

Happy New Year!

27/01/2009, by scmorgan 5 comments

The Lunar New Year, which begins today, ushers in the Year of the Ox. Those born under this sign are said to be dependable, calm, modest and stable.

The Year of the Ox falls in the years of 1913, 1925, 1937, 1949, 1961, 1973, 1985, 1997 and 2009.

I was born in 1949 and am an Ox. An earth Ox.

We are said to be bright, peace-loving, often easy-going and trusting. But, on the other hand, we can also be stubborn, methodical, and fiercely competitive, with…uh, oh…. fierce tempers. My husband will vouch for that!

Oxen are also said to be natural born mentors and life is filled with examples of people who have gone on to great success because of them.

Barack Obama is also an Ox. A metal Ox.

According to one source I read: “They respond like poets to the beauties of nature and of solitude.” And I have to admit, I do love my solitude.

The source also said: “Oxen are unique, they are the flower that bursts through the crack of cement.”

I like that.

Ox.

Check out your own chinese zodiacal sign.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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That’s How I feel Too, Sasha!

22/01/2009, by scmorgan 1 comment

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Earthquake!~

11/01/2009, by scmorgan 6 comments

There I was on the third floor of a medical building in San José. A half hour early for my yearly exam, I sat patiently in my OB/ GYN’s waiting room. I had just passed my husband, Alan, a magazine and was about to fan through the pages of one I picked out… when all hell broke out.

At first I wasn’t sure what was going on. The windows behind me started to rattle, and then the coffee pot on the end table next to me began to shake. I heard people gasping. I don’t know whether it’s the years of ER work––something––but it takes a near apocalyptic event to get my adrenaline flowing. I watched as my doctor staggered out of her office and, hanging on the door frame, called out to her husband in an adjoining office. The secretary froze at her desk, her mouth forming a permanent Oh! expression. By now the walls were lashing back and forth and I could hear glass breaking inside the exam room. People screamed out in the hall. A loud rumble filled my ears. How I envision the end of the world.

“Manuel… Manuel.” My doc kept calling.

Any sense of fear I had was momentarily displaced by a sense of disbelief. I have been in earthquakes before but always out in the country and always in manageable situations, and by manageable I mean I could move to a place where I felt safer. I sat there in a room where these things don’t happen wearing on my face, I’m sure, the same surprised little Oh! look the secretary wore on hers. Then my Lizard Brain finally awoke, and I felt the jolt of fight or flight hormones course through my system leaving a taste of aluminum in my mouth.

I realized we were in the middle of a strong earthquake, and the overwhelming desire to flee took over. I imagined the building going down; Alan and I trapped under piles of concrete. Dead would be preferable to trapped as far as I’m concerned, my claustrophobia legend in the family. I have always said that if captured by “the enemy” all they would have to do to obtain information would be to place me in a small space and wait about 30 seconds. I’d even make things up for them.

Dr. Badilla’s husband emerged from his office saying, “Everyone please remain calm and stay seated.” As though there were much chance of standing with the building dancing the merengue all around us. Forty seconds can feel like a lifetime and that is about the duration of the first tremor to hit San José in last Thursday’s 6.1 magnitude earthquake.

As soon as the shaking stopped, I said to Alan, “Let’s get the hell out of here.”

We squeezed out of the now crowded waiting room and bolted for the stairs. All nurses know where they are located in any given hospital, and we hit the deserted stair well, banging open the metal door. We were down and out of the building in seconds. Outside people milled around and most were on their cell phones trying to reach family. I tried to call our hired man, José, but realized with all the people attempting to make contact there was no way of getting through.

Then, deciding all was clear, we reentered the building and sat down in the lobby with a whole slew of people to watch the TV in amazement. The epicenter was about 20 miles north-northwest of San José and is an area Alan and I know well. We have often taken the scenic drive from Sarapiqui to San José, wrapping up around Volcan Poas in mountainous terrain filled with waterfalls and steep canyons, then down into the city. That road no longer exists after last Thursday. The footage local channel 7 showed was of complete devastation. I’ll include this link so you can see. If you don’t understand Spanish just fast forward to the film clips. The one toward the end is quite amazing.

While we sat watching, we could feel the aftershocks, replicas, some strong enough to rock the building again. They continued through the rest of the day and on into the night–– upwards of 2000, I’ve heard. Most were too small to be felt, although I counted about 15-20 of them in various offices around San José that afternoon.

Reports began to come in through the day. Initially, there was one fatality noted, a young child who was selling cookies to tourists as they passed. A slide buried her. Then other reports began to come in: 200 tourists stranded at a resort hotel at Varra Blanca, the road destroyed on either side. Villages cut off from rescue workers and hundreds upon hundreds of people rendered homeless within minutes.

Back in our hotel in the late afternoon we heard the death toll had climbed to three. Today, according to CNN it stands at 34. The Red Cross continues to work to locate all those listed as missing.

We are fine and at home again as of yesterday. Our hired man said they never felt a thing here in Punta Uva.

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Pipilachas in the Garden~

04/01/2009, by scmorgan 6 comments

Pipilachas (or dragonflies) have discovered the little pond Alan and I installed over the Christmas holiday. They tracked it down it the minute the hole was lined with plastic and we filled it with water. Our first (visible) inhabitants.

We discovered, quite by accident, that a large red pipilacha likes to stand guard over the pond. He established his outpost on a piece of string Alan used to tie up some transplanted lemon grass at the pond’s edge. We thought nothing of it, but when Alan removed the string, the dragonfly had no comfortable landing strip anymore. He used the lemon grass for a bit but it swung about in the breeze and wasn’t satisfactory. He finally settled on the tips of a very large agave plant. It was further away from the pond, though, so he had to fly out on reconnaissance flights more often.

This morning, as we sat on the porch having our morning tea, Alan said, “There! See, he’s landing on it.”

Earlier, Alan had placed a bit of wire for him. It looks quite Japanese in its simplicity and form, and the pipilacha seems taken with it and now uses it regularly.

So this morning, with camera in hand, I crept as stealthily as I could to catch a photo while he rested on his perch.

No chance of that.

Dragonflies have been around for millions of years. According to The British Dragonfly Society, they predate dinosaurs by 150 million years. So they are survivalists in the most Darwinian of ways. They have adapted themselves to their environment and, as a result, still live and reproduce much as they did millions of years ago. One of these skills is their eyesight.

Again, according to the British Dragonfly Society, “Dragonflies are visual hunters and have impressive vision being able to see in color as well as ultraviolet light and polarized light, which enables them to see reflections of light on water. Their large compound eyes are made up of as many as 30,000 facets or lenses.”

That’s 29,999 more than you or I have. Consequently, I was no match when it came to outmaneuvering him. I didn’t get any closer than three feet and he was off and away, wheeling up over my head. I sat quietly on a rock by the pond and could hear his papery wings buzzing overhead. I remained as motionless as I could, and soon he became calmer, lighting briefly on his wire outlook. On one of his forays out I turned on the camera, focused it, and waited, sure the battery would go dead– or the thing would shut off automatically. But it didn’t and, ultimately, I was able to get these pictures of him.

I don’t know how long he will be around. I read that the average life expectancy of adult dragonflies depends on the part of the world they live in. In temperate climates, according to a Beginners Guide to Dragonflies, the largest portion of the dragonfly’s lifetime, which may amount to several years, is spent in the larval phase while the adult phase is only one or two months. In species common to the tropics or subtropics, however, larval development may be reduced to a few months and the adult phase as long as a full year. So that’s nice.And the best part is, both larvae and adults devour mosquitoes. Maybe he will be with us for awhile. Not like those butterflies of ours. They are gone before you can say… PIPILACHA!.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Goldilocks’ Rice and Beans~

01/01/2009, by scmorgan 4 comments

It’s New Year’s Day and I’m making rice and beans. Actually, it’s pronounced more like: rice’n beans. Rice and peas, my neighbors call them. In some parts of the world people eat them for good luck. Here, they are a main stay in the diet.

Along this Caribbean coast they are made with coconut milk and served with jerk chicken, fish, or pork chops and a shredded cabbage salad. If you want this same meal with white rice and red beans on the side, you ask for a casado. Literally translated it means married. To get real rice and beans you ask for rice’n beans with chicken (or whatever). You can order it in most restaurants, but there are outstanding rice and pea cooks and some that are not so great.

In all the time I’ve lived here, I’ve never gotten the recipe right. Partly that’s because the women here have no written recipe as we know them: one cup of this and two cups of that. They tend to cook the way their mothers did, pouring in some of this and some of that and they know how it should look to make it right. Every time I’ve watched someone make rice and beans something has come up that took me out of the kitchen just as they added the liquid, and they DON’T WANT THAT LID LIFTED. NO SIR. Consequently, I had to fend for myself.

For a long time, I thought the two were cooked separately and then mixed together when done. When I found out that wasn’t the case I asked about the liquid. How do you balance the liquid already in the beans with what is required to cook the raw rice?

“It’s just a knuckle above the rice. That’s all,” Miss Olga once explained as though I were daft for asking. I got various other answers along these lines and began to over-think the problem. Was she talking about the “Tip Segment?” – The phalanx with the fingernail, or the “Middle Segment?” – The middle phalanx. The “Top Knuckle?” – The upper joint, closest to the fingernail. “Middle Knuckle?” – The middle joint. You get the idea.

I have made them dry, the rice not fully cooked for lack of liquid. I have made them soggy from too much. I’m looking for that Goldilocks recipe this year and spent last week searching the Internet. Most of the recipes referred to using a can of red kidney beans. No cans here at the end of the road but there are dried beans enough to ballast a freighter.

I finally found, what I think is my answer… it’s cooking as we speak, and perhaps––just perhaps––they will warrant a picture when they are done.

Alan went out into the potrero this morning and fetched a coconut, husked it, drained off the liquid in pan, and broke it into pieces. I took the meat and liquid and, using my blender, shredded the meat. No grater for this girl; my knuckles have enough scars from abuse over the years and I don’t need more. The locals have these enormous homemade galvanized ones they call “scratchers.” That is exactly what you end up doing to yourself with one of those, too.

Then I took red beans I soaked overnight and cooked them with a panameño pepper (scotch bonnet) thyme, a little garlic, and some onion. I can’t cook without those last two ingredients. A friend of my husband’s claims he can’t eat food that includes garlic or onion. I could never be married to a man like that, that’s for sure.

Once the beans were tender I fried up a bit of onion, garlic, a little cilantro, and red pepper in a large pot. Added the beans (2 cups) and stirred in the white rice (1 cup). Once those were nicely mixed, I added the coconut milk and enough water to cover the mixture by three quarters of an inch. I know. This sounds exactly like Miss Olga’s recipe, but at least it was specific and not a “knuckle.” It turns out they are roughly the same measurement.

Here are the results:

I have to say the rice and peas are quite good. I still don’t feel I’ve conquered the light and fluffy rice that Miss Olga used to make, but then she will be 95-years-old this February and has a lot of lead time on me. I suppose if I were to make them every day, or even once a week, as she did, I might get there in a few years. I don’t know if she still dabbles in cooking as she’s moved to Limon to live with her son, Alfonso. And it might simply be that I remember her cooking and loved her cooking hand, as they call it here.

My husband says they are delicious, but then what else is he supposed to say? It’s like asking him whether a dress makes me look fat. He’s not touching that one, either!

And here is a bit of eye-candy for dessert. This buttefly and some congo bees were working a flower out in the yard by the new pond yesterday.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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  • L is for Leaving A to Z Challenge, or How I was Unable to Continue
  • K is for Kilo
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  • H is for Hacerse Bolas
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  • F is for Frito
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  • C is for calenton de cabeza.

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K is for Kilo
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Remembering to Breathe
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January in Costa Rica
Leaving
River of Stones: 01 January 2012
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Kingfisher
Quack! Quack!
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Mother's Day Quotes (Repost)
Thinking Plants and Thoughtful Gardeners
Of Quipus and Libraries
Feeling a Bit Apocalyptic
Justice of a Sort
New Book Review- Stolen World
In Solidarity, but Tired
Pebbles in the River
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Book Review: The Tenth Parallel
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Two Little Stones
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On a Morning Walk
Resolutions for the New Year
Banking on an Answer
Betancourt Memoir
No Direction Home
INS and Out
Lost and Found~
Inversion Therapy~
The Disappearing Spoon
Muse Online Workshop
Beam me up, Dr. Dish!
Haiti- Message in a Bottle~
Madman or Genius?~
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Crack! and Thump~
Ode to a Little Red Dog~
Rats! It's My Domain~
Reviewing Quoz
Under the Weather~
Happy New Year!
That's How I feel Too, Sasha!
Earthquake!~
Pipilachas in the Garden~
Goldilocks' Rice and Beans~
Here It Comes!~
Greed in a Time of Giving~
One-stop Christmas Shopping~
From Foulness to Serenity~
It's a Disaster!
Foxes in the Henhouse
Let it Rain!
Seven Wheelchairs: A Life Beyond Polio
A Quasi-technotard in Oz
YES WE CAN!
In paradise There is No...
Poverty
Blog Action Day- Oct 15, 2008
International Nursing~
Vive El Arte~
Another Carlsberg Perhaps?~
The Best Beer in the World?~
Independent Thoughts~
Tanigumi- Japan Stories
Migracion- The Fast Track~
Dog Days~
Presumptive or Presumptuous?~
A Day at The Hospital~
Of Sushi and Little Girls
Lost In Transition
Cell Phone Etiquette- Hello?
Stimulating the Economy
Grandmother Always Loved You Best~
Order & Chaos
Ingrid Betancourt on BBC
Woodpeckers in the Garden
Touring France
Spring Ceaning
Muse Brain/ Monkey Brain
Morning Serenity~
My Octopus~
Dreaming of Johnee
Of Alan Bennett and Bumper Stickers~
Learning to Ignore Lonely Planet~
Camarones, Por Favor
Chirm, Wiggly, Penholder~
A Chance Meeting~
Good Junk Books~
Mother's Day Quotes~
Lost Souls & Infant Potty Training
Wollemi pines and Megabats~
Stress: My Former Constant Companion~
At Large and At Small at IRB~
A Big, Big Thinker~
Page 123~
Leap Year~
Me, Obaachan~
To MFA, or Not To MFA~
MOPT II- The Second Half of the Story~
MOPT- Half of the Story~
Dot to Dot~
Backstory in Nonfiction~
Online Writing Classes~
An Ode to the Cliché~
An Accidental Writer~
A Little Bite, Please~
The Winter Solstice~
Peace On Earth~
The Thing on My Desk~
Into the Ears of Cleaning Ladies~
Time for a Post~
Book Reviews~
Computer Poltergeists~
The Meme Challenge~
Blog Fatigue~
The Kingbird Convention
Wanted: Virus. Short-term Use Only~
Secretarial or Procurement~
Some Thoughts on My Father-in-law
LBJ's
The Vicissitudes of Growing Older
Amazing Husbands
Separate in Another World
Cleaning Up Around the Place
Breakfast With the Howlers
Red Letter Day!
Jungle Cats and the Old Revision Blues
Everything Wiggly and Poisonous
Ethnocentric Japan
Japan Notes
Headed for Japan with Pnuenomia
I Finally Get a Cell Phone
Cell Phones and How to Get Them
High winds
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About this site

scmorgan grew up in the Pacific Northwest where she learned not everything is black and white. Now she lives in the jungles of the Costa Rica where shades of gray cover the full spectrum. Her work has appeared in Bluestem, Camroc Press Review, Notre Dame magazine, among others. Sometimes she blogs and sometimes she just lives her life.

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