scmorgan A Gringuita in Costa Rica: Expat Reflections from the Free Zone

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Monthly archive: December, 2008

Here It Comes!~

21/12/2008, by scmorgan 8 comments

Here Comes the Sun~

Here comes the sun, here comes the sun, 
And I say it’s all right. 
Little darling it’s been a long cold lonely winter, 
Little darling it feels like years since it’s been here. 
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun, 
And I say it’s all right. 
Little darling the smiles returning to their faces, 
Little darling it seems like it’s years since it’s been here, 
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun, 
And I say it’s all right. 
Sun, sun, sun, here it comes. 
Sun, sun, sun, here it comes. 
Sun, sun, sun, here it comes. 
Sun, sun, sun, here it comes. 
Little darling I feel that ice is slowly melting, 
Little darling it seems like years since it’s been clear, 
Here comes the sun, here comes the sun, 
It’s all right, it’s all right. The Beatles~

For us here in Costa Rica, it’s not such a big thing, but for all my friends in those northerly latitudes… this song’s for you. That’s you in Northumbria, England, on the cold North Sea shore; you in Ontario, Canada, where it is below freezing and snowing still I’m sure; you in McMinnville, Oregon, where the snow is six… no, make that ten inches deep; you in Juneau, Alaska, where you probably haven’t seen the sun rise above the horizon for over a month now; you in North Easton, Massachusetts, and all the other “yous” who are in the land of ice and snow and dark.

Have faith, the sun will return.

Alan and I celebrated the Solstice with a roast chicken, stuffing, cranberry sauce, and fresh broccoli. We ate out on the front porch, which is our normal dining area most days, but today it was knock-your-socks-off gorgeous.We finished installing a small pond in our front yard and today we watched as pipilachas (dragonflies) in wonderful colors of red, orange, and blue swooped over it to investigate. A pair of Kiskadees took a bath in the jug we are using as a water fountain, skidding across the water like ducks. Then they stood on the rim, shook themselves dry, turned around, and scooted across again. Other birds saw the commotion and joined in, using the rocks around the pool as launching pads. We also have a resident frog in the pond, now. There isn’t a lot of plant material for it to hide in yet; we have to go on a water plant search soon, but it seems to have decided to stake out its territory before any others. 

Alan found the first of the blooms on the irises he planted last fall. They should be spectacular when they are all in bloom… soon. 

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Greed in a Time of Giving~

17/12/2008, by scmorgan 2 comments

I read about Bernie Madoff and his ponzi scheme the other day, all the people he took down while raking in the millions… no, make that billions of dollars. They say it will go down as the biggest fraud case in history. But Bernie has nothing on us here in Costa Rica, or maybe this is where he learned his trade… or where he’ll end up. This is, and has always been, the place to accomplish this kind of investment formula.

I suppose it all started with Robert Vesco, back in the 1970s, or that’s as far as my collective knowledge goes. He bilked U.S. investors out of millions of dollars, putting it into dummy corporations all over the globe. After an investigation by the Security and Exchange Commission (SEC) and it became clear that charges against him were imminent, Vesco took the corporate jet and fled to Costa Rica— along with about $200 million.

He spent the next fifteen years fighting extradition. Even got a law named after him: The Vesco Law. He donated $2.1 million to Sociedad Agricola Industrial San Cristobal, S.A., a company founded by then President José Figueres. Figueres then passed a law to guarantee that Vesco would not be extradited to the U.S.. Eventually his luck ran out, though; Costa Rica repealed the law and signed a treaty with the United States.

He managed to dodge the bullet, flying to Havana where he lived out his life. Cuba is a tough place to end up and I have read that he was eventually sentenced to 13 years in prison for “fraud and illicit economic activity” and “acts prejudicial to the economic plans and contracts of the state.” I believe he died a couple of years ago. Some say in jail, others say he never served a day.

I gather that Bernie Madoff is out on a $10 million bond and can’t travel outside of New York City area, but Vesco managed to escape the long arm of the U.S. Law. Kenny Lay died––died, or committed suicide––before he ever served any time for the whole Enron debacle that left thousands penniless. Then there are The Brothers.

These guys are my favorites. The Villalobos Brothers, our Costa Rican brand of swindler. I was once courted by one of their “investors” when I first arrived here, wet behind the ears, back in the early 1990s. Their scheme had operated for over 20 years. It was safe, they promised me.

“You and Alan should really think about investing with them,” said Joe, an aging Canadian fireplug who liked to pass himself off as a judge, even though he was really just a bailiff in a small municipal court in Ontario. “All you have to invest is $10,000.00, and you get three percent interest every month, more if you reinvest the interest. I can introduce you to the president of the company. He’s a really nice guy, owns a helicopter business.”

“Yeah, well thirty-six percent interest a year sounds dirty to me,” I told my husband later that night. “And you know what they say when it sounds too good to be true?” We never did invest in the “fund” but many, many others we know did.

It was run by Enrique Luis Villalobos and his brother, Osvaldo, out of a small office in San Pedro, a suburb of the capital, San José. There was religion involved apparently. Enrique claimed to be a minister and had a church he was “supporting.” He was charming and there are still investors today who claim he was framed by the government; Costa Rica is to blame for the loss of their money. Enrique Villalobos is now an International fugitive with millions of other people’s money.

In true Ponzi fashion The Brother’s Fund fed off newcomers, paying off previous investors until Canada finally blew their cover in an investigation over drugs and money laundering in 2001. In May of that year the Canadian Mounted Police busted six people in Canada and confiscated 1200 pounds of cocaine. At the same time the Costa Rican police raided The Brother’s offices in San Pedro. Computers and files were seized. The Villalobos? One of them went to jail, but Enrique—the brain— is on the loose somewhere.

Alan and I talked about it and agree it would be the perfect set up for money laundering. Think about it. If you had, say, $500,000.00 of dirty money and couldn’t use it for legal purposes, what better way than to put it in an investment fund that paid out at thirty-six percent a year. It would only take three years to get your $500,000.00 back as “legal” interest. You wouldn’t be able to use the dirty money, so you just leave it there and move on with the clean interest, knowing there are more drug sales to be made and more principle to be invested. The other investors— the chumps full of larceny, as my dad likes to call them— got stuck holding the bag.

There were many people who had their entire retirement invested in that fund. I imagine there are people in that same situation right now with the Bernie Madoff mess. Granted Madoff was only offering eleven percent interest, but that still seems high for normal mutual fund growth. He found a lot of investors, though.

Here’s the rub: greed outweighs caution ninety-nine percent of the time, or, as PT Barnum is supposed to have put it: there’s a sucker born every minute.

We’ve known this in Latin America for years, but America is catching up fast in the corruption business. Me? I’m not investing a dime in anything until there are regulations in place that make investing an option again.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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One-stop Christmas Shopping~

13/12/2008, by scmorgan 2 comments

One stop Christmas shopping arrived this year in the form of a Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC) email. I opened my mail this morning and lo and behold there was the perfect gift: a certificate in someone’s name for a reforestation effort of Costa Rica’s dwindling natural habitat.

I immediately donated for my entire family so they might participate from a distance in a worthy project. The money will go to NRDC’s partner group, Tropical Agricultural Research and Higher Education Center (CATIE, pronounced CAT-EE-YA) and will go to reforest the area just to the north of us in the Turrialba region of Costa Rica.

Alan and once went to their headquarters looking for tropical hardwood saplings to plant on our property. We were very impressed with the place and their efforts to increase awareness of ecological effects of traditional slash and burn agriculture. Their stated mission is “to contribute to rural poverty reduction by promoting competitive and sustainable agriculture and natural resource management, through higher education, research and technical cooperation.” They do this by working with the following target groups:

*Small and medium-sized low-resource farmers including those living in extreme poverty, and those with minimum means to diversify and become competitive

*Rural communities and local organizations

*Business-oriented farmers and agroindustrial entrepreneurs generating rural employment

One of the things they have done in this regard is to develop a mold resistant variety of cacao and have taught the people of this area how to manage their crops without disturbing the indigenous plants of the region.

In the late 1970s a mildew blight, Moniliasis, hit the crops of this region virtually wiping out the income of the locals. Our black neighbors have always claimed the banana companies brought the mold blight, saying they did it to steal their land. My guess it was a hundred plus years of mono-cropping and the mildew took advantage. Whatever the case, the cacao has never been as strong or as plentiful as before.

CATIE now trains people and implements farming practices with small-scale producers in order to increase the profitability and competitiveness of their cacao plantations without losing the environmental functions of these diversified systems. A worthy cause for sure and my Christmas present to my family.

If you would like to donate to this project please use this link.The monkeys will love you forever!

If you’d like to give to a cause closer to home, follow this link to the Natural Resources Defense Council’s Web site.

Have a Merry Christmas and a greener New Year!



Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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From Foulness to Serenity~

06/12/2008, by scmorgan 4 comments

Dawn crept under the window shutters yesterday morning, and as I woke something told me this day would be different from the past few weeks. I had closed them to keep the cold and damp of the weeks before out. Our bed linen has been clammy from the accumulated moisture in the air and it’s been a bitter affair climbing into bed at night. I thought perhaps closing them would help. It did––a bit––but the dryer worked far better.

There was no sign of sun yesterday but something created a flirting promise of change from foul to fair. What was it I sensed about the day that was different? Certainly not the forecast; I rarely rely on that. Was it less humid than the preceding days and my body subconsciously relayed the message to my monkey brain? Or does the body know when the barometric pressure changes? I know some people with arthritis claim they can predict rain from the pain in their joints as the low pressure descends. One man has dedicated a blog to the whole notion, complete with graphs of barometric pressure readings and his subjective pain measured on a scale of 0-10. The National Institutes of Health has done studies trying to figure it out. The results are inconclusive, but still, I think, there is something there.

It was still overcast yesterday morning, although the cloud cover had lifted, and the dark jade-green days seemed to have given way to a lighter shade of pale. My mood became more elastic, or as H.D. Thoreau put it: “The change from foulness to serenity… instantaneous.” As birds out in the yard returned with the industriousness of the starving I felt a return of a greener world, shedding the one of mushrooms, moss, and mold we have been living with since I got home.

Our dog Kashá must have felt it too. She took a tour out into the potrero to investigate what smells had changed during the dank days of the past weeks. She trotted with her tail high, stopped to sniff, and vigorously scratched the ground throwing grass and water out behind her (letting everyone know who was boss of this outfit). Then she sprinted to my side, all full of Dog Joy. When she is excited like this her eyes are shiny and so clear I can see directly into her soul. There is no malice to be found in that space, only deep and abiding love.

Slowly during the day the clouds parted and sun dared show herself. Briefly at first… as though afraid all of us might rebuke her for her time away. (Doing what?, is what I want to know.) None of us dared say anything bad, for fear she’d leave again, and over time she became more confident. By afternoon she had shouldered most of the clouds out of her way.

I needed to go into Puerto Viejo for groceries and all along the road people were out of their houses walking in shorts and T-shirts, visiting with neighbors; scantily clad tourists rode rental bikes in large flocks, slipstreaming around puddles and holes in the road; dogs investigated here and there rediscovering and establishing territories; and laundry was strung everywhere: on lines and on bushes and barbed-wire fences. All the houses were flung wide open and furniture soaked from the flooding had been hauled outdoors where it steamed like big Chinese hum-bows in the sun.

The weather is absolutely gorgeous today; not a cloud in the sky. I’m sure it will rain again in the next couple of days. The atmosphere can’t cope with all this moisture rising up without sending some of it back down on us again.

But we are, at least for now, into some very nice weather.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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It’s a Disaster!

02/12/2008, by scmorgan 4 comments

Last week I wrote about the rain here in Limón province. Well, the statistics are in: November saw an increase in levels from the usual 372 mm (22 inches) for the month to over 780 (47 inches. That’s well over a yard in a month!)–– and those figures were before the end of November. The rain has left people homeless and still it continues. Today it is raining hard and the electricity is gone… again.

The post office in Puerto Viejo was closed all last week and I finally asked the pharmacist across the way when the post mistress was coming back.

“Her house washed away, but I think she is coming back Monday,” he said.

I was in town yesterday and indeed she was back at the job. I asked about her house while she checked my mailbox for a package.

“All my belongings are wet and most of them are ruined from the mud,” she told me, “but my house is still there.”

She is not alone.

According to our English language newspaper, The Tico Times, pending a complete report The National Emergency Commission (CNE) more than 4500 homes and dozens of roads and bridges were destroyed or severely damaged due to high waters and mudslides. The banana companies are declaring 21 million dollars in losses due to flooding, and no telling how much the locals businesses are losing because of the rains. At least one person has died and approximately 5800 people have requested refuge in 84 shelters in the region. Many families were trapped without access to relief efforts.

By Wednesday of last week we were declared a disaster area and President Arias made available 3.8 million dollars for the effort. Emergency operations have worked steadily ever since to reach the indigenous communities in the mountainous terrain of Mt Chirripó that were left isolated and without food or drinking water.

Helicopters from the U.S. Southern Command have been flying over our heads daily taking the needed supplies to people up in the mountains above us as well as into western Panama to our south, where, according to the United Nations, at least eight people have died. The photo I have included is of the town of Sixaola on the Costa Rica/ Panama border and is about ten miles from us.

We had a rainy season like this a couple of years ago. At the end of a three month period it had rained a total of 1375 mm (a cool 7 feet) of rain. By the end of that stint all of our houses were moldy and most women were going slightly crazy from being house-bound, but at least we had houses. I have gathered together clothes and food and dropped it off at a relief checkpoint. As President Arias said, “We may not be able to stop the rain, but we can all help the victims.”

Let’s hope for drier weather in December.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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From Foulness to Serenity~
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Foxes in the Henhouse
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Seven Wheelchairs: A Life Beyond Polio
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At Large and At Small at IRB~
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Me, Obaachan~
To MFA, or Not To MFA~
MOPT II- The Second Half of the Story~
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Dot to Dot~
Backstory in Nonfiction~
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An Ode to the Cliché~
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Headed for Japan with Pnuenomia
I Finally Get a Cell Phone
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About this site

scmorgan grew up in the Pacific Northwest where she learned not everything is black and white. Now she lives in the jungles of the Costa Rica where shades of gray cover the full spectrum. Her work has appeared in Bluestem, Camroc Press Review, Notre Dame magazine, among others. Sometimes she blogs and sometimes she just lives her life.

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