scmorgan A Gringuita in Costa Rica: Expat Reflections from the Free Zone

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Monthly archive: July, 2008

Order & Chaos

26/07/2008, by scmorgan 4 comments

 According to Victor MacGill, life is caught in the tension between order and chaos. If there is too much order, everything becomes the same and there is no room for creativity or anything new. Everything must fit the one pattern. If there is too much chaos nothing can last long enough to create anything useful; everything is just a jumble that destroys everything before it can get started. Between order and chaos is found the Edge of Chaos, the point where there is enough chaos for novelty and creativity, but also enough order for consistency and patterns to endure. This point is a magic point, where new and unimagined properties can emerge.

Victor MacGill

I’m not sure which side of the continuum I’m on at the moment, but when I get back to The Edge I’ll let you know.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Ingrid Betancourt on BBC

11/07/2008, by scmorgan 6 comments

Ingrid Betancourt was interviewed by Stephen Sackur on the BBC’s Hardtalk, yesterday (click here to watch the entire interview). She has been an inspiration to me and many others around the world, but after this interview I believe she has been elevated to the realm of a select few who have endured hardships beyond most of our wildest imaginations and emerged changed but not bitter. When asked what exactly the FARC did to her while was held captive she preferred not to answer those questions, saying instead that each day those things are coming to the surface in her mind and she has to deal with them before she speaks publicly about them. Sackur asked her if she didn’t feel anger and want retaliation when she saw the man who had held her for so many years lying on the floor of the rescue helicopter, and this is what she said, paraphrasing: No, I did not. We are humans and humans are separated from the rest of the animals by words. We must learn to use words to solve the world’s problems.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Woodpeckers in the Garden

10/07/2008, by scmorgan 3 comments

Melanerpes pucherani
Black-cheeked Woodpecker

Or Carpenterio carinegros, as the locals along this Caribbean coastline call them. Whatever the name, they are resident birds found from SE Mexico to Ecuador.

So it was not unsual that I should have spotted one the other day. My husband and I were sitting on our front porch, which overlooks an open pasture in the jungle, and I saw a bird popping along up the trunk of an old, dying coconut palm. Because we have so many birds here we always have a set of binoculars at the ready as well as our spotting scope.

It took a bit to identify the little guy as there are many woodpeckers that migrate through on their way to Columbia and other South American countries. The Acorn Woodpecker, for instance, ranges from the United States to Columbia and The Hairy Woodpecker breeds in Alaska and northern Canada and travels to the Bahamas and Panama. But it is June so I suspect that most of the northerly-inclined species are busy making babies somewhere far from here.

The Black-cheeked Woodpecker is a quite lovely. Its red crest feathers flare up when it is intent and looking for insects, its beady coal-black eye intent on the mission at hand. A sturdy black chisel-like beak is used for that incessant hammering from whence they get their name. Its wings are barred black and it has a spot of white over and behind the eye. A soft buff colored underbelly is barred and resembles a tiny washboard strapped to their chest. It was the distinctive red stripe down the center of its belly that identified it for us. No other neotropical woodpecker has the red underbelly.

As it moved along the trunk of the palm we could see through the scope that it was feeding on a termite trail that ran along the trunk like a small river of sand. The woodpecker only had to make a few stabs at the trail casing and then with a surprisingly long tongue, also used to drink nectar from flowers of the balsa and kapok trees, it licked up the termites. It spent a good deal of time poking about in the crevices and cracks, probing for beetles and grubs that were also feeding off the dying tree.

I have been reading Living on the Wind: Across the Hemisphere With Migratory Birds, by Scott Weidensaul, and have been amazed at the discoveries that scientists have made with regard to the migratory status of many species of birds that were thought, not too long ago, to be “residents.” It turns out that most birds are always on the move and will change their diets depending on the time of year and abundance of certain proteins, moving with the food supply. So, whether they migrate across the world or across the country, most birds are always on the move.

The woodpecker I saw the other day is probably nesting right now. We saw the excavated hole––a no nonsense rectangular affair––high up in the palm, and the bird made several trips up there bobbing forward repeatedly into the hole. No way to know for certain as the little ones keep well out of sight to avoid being taken by a Collared Aracari or a Keel-billed Toucan that also reside here in large numbers.

According to my Guide to Birds of Costa Rica, by Stiles and Skutch, the female lays between 2-4 eggs pure white eggs per hatch that both parents incubate. The eggs hatch at 14 days and young fledge in about 21 days. I will continue to watch the hole in the palm tree to see when they emerge, and I wish them well. The Black-cheeked woodpecker is not endangered, but many others are.

As of 2001 these species of woodpeckers were either critically endangered or threatened:

Imperial Woodpecker––Critical

Ivory-billed Woodpecker––Critical

Cuban Flicker (Fernadina’s)––Endangered

Okinawa Woodpecker ––Critical

Knysna Woodpecker––Near Threatened

Stierling’s Woodpecker––Near Threatened

Olive-backed Woodpecker––Near Threatened

Andaman Woodpecker–– Near Threatened

Black-bodied Woodpecker––Near Threatened

Yellow-browed Woodpecker––Near Threatened

Tawny Piculet––Near Threatened

Rusty-necked Piculet––Near Threatened

Mottled Piculet––Near Threatened

Helmeted Woodpecker––Vulnerable

Red-cockaded Woodpecker––Vulnerable

Ochraceous Piculet––Vulnerable

Speckle-chested Piculet––Vulnerable

Red-cockaded Woodpecker Endangered

The Ivory-bill and Imperial woodpeckers were thought to be extinct, but in April 2005 an Ivory-billed woodpecker was spotted in Arkansas, the first sighting in 60 years. Still, In the last 30 years the two largest species of woodpeckers have been all but lost.

And in case you didn’t know, according to Wikipedia :

Peckerwood (or simply Wood) is a pejorative slang term coined in the 19th century by southern black Americans to describe poor whites. Blacks saw blackbirds as a symbol of themselves, and the woodpecker as a representation of working class whites. They considered them loud and troublesome like the bird, often with red hair similar to the bird’s red plumes. This word is still widely used by southern blacks to refer to southern whites.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Touring France

07/07/2008, by scmorgan 3 comments

We are on Tour again this summer.

All is on hold for four hours every morning while Alan and I watch the Tour de France (also known more recently as the Dope de France) live on ESPN.

I love the cat-and-mouse of the race itself, and the wide pans of the camera to the chateaus and gorgeous countryside of France is an extra bonus.

So we will listen to Phil Liggett and Paul Sherwen as they take us through the next month of bicycle racing. We haven’t heard of any drug scandals…yet, but today there were French workers on strike blocking the race for a short spell until they got their message out across the airwaves, then they moved off the course.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Spring Ceaning

05/07/2008, by scmorgan 4 comments

I am not a shopper. Never have been.

When I was growing up, every fall my mother dutifully brought home an armload of dresses from the store so I would have something to wear to school. I was allowed to try them on in the privacy of my own room (with a decent mirror, I might add), and then she returned the rest. I suppose it was all that slonking of saddle shoes on the sides of escalators and counters, slamming of dressing room doors, and general irritability that convinced her to go to these extremes for me.

I would have been happy in my Levis and turtlenecks as a uniform. In fact, that was pretty much my entire wardrobe during summers and vacations. It makes life so much easier when shopping: turtle neck, one size and five colors. Done.

And, I ended up becoming a nurse so the profession determined my outfits. Uniforms. Fine by me and no need to paw through the closet and groan at my image in the mirror when I was having an I’m Too Fat To Wear This kind of day. I worked in the ER or Critical Care so I didn’t even have to buy my own uniforms; the hospitals did it for me. Washed them too. I wore my jeans and turtlenecks to work and back home again.

This lack of shopping has slopped over into the rest of my life. My husband is always frustrated with me, asking why I don’t get a new computer or microwave or dishrag, for that matter.

I’ve heard there is an OCD component to many shoppers, the obsession with the hunt, the compulsive need to own some object of desire, and the fulfillment of the conquest. It’s a disorder, I swear. I always feel extremely depressed when the money leaves my hand. There is probably a clinical diagnosis for me in the Diagnostical and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders and I’m willing to admit that I fall on the obsessive side of frugality from time to time. Alan calls it the Pinchy Gene.

I have never felt that thrill true shoppers talk about and so, day before yesterday, when I went over to our hired man’s house, I was out of my element.

Entirely.

We live in the tropics and are blessed with the unholy trinity of mildew mold, and, if not taken care of, rot. Houses here have to be washed, at least yearly, both inside and out. We eased into the whole “cleaning thing” by having our hired man’s father, who is currently working for us, wash and revarnish the outside of their little house.

Finished with the outside we moved him inside day before yesterday. Rosa, our hired man’s wife, had assured us that she was doing this on a regular basis, but we knew she probably hadn’t washed the upper beams and rafters, so we sent her father-in-law in for the job.

He seemed at a loss as to where to start so we went over to do some superintending. I immediately saw the dilemma. There was not a flat surface in that house that was not piled to capacity with stuff. George Carlin, bless his soul, could have used this house as a prop for his A Place for My Stuff routine. There were bottles of nail polish everywhere, toys and dolls (she has no children), more cooking utensils than I knew existed (she doesn’t cook), clothes, CDs, make up, figurines, and any other thing you can think of that can be purchased, including a dead Christmas tree from last December. It was as though I’d entered the realm of a person with a severe mental disorder.

Rosa grew up poor in Nicaragua and I’m sure this has something to so with the obsession. I suppose if I talked with a psychiatrist she would tell me that all these things are a replacement for a lost childhood. I can understand that, I guess. I haven’t ever experienced that kind of grinding poverty so it’s hard for me to relate, but I understand the concept.

What I can’t understand is the lack of care she takes with the things she has bought. I know, although I couldn’t round up the entire herd of nail polish bottles, that she probably has at least three duplicates of any given color, because she could never find the one she was looking for. Instead, she bought more. I know there have to be duplicates because they don’t make that many colors to represent the number of bottles I saw. They lined the windowsills of her room. They were on the kitchen counter, on the sewing machine, which hasn’t been used for any sewing for some time, on shelves in the bathroom, on the floor, they propped open windows and doors, one jammed under the door to keep it open. They were outside on the porch, and dead ones littered the underside of the house.

She has boxes of stuff filled to overflowing crammed into corners of their room, stacks of papers and magazines that tower and tilt on bureaus and chairs, and the corners of the kitchen were (are still, as papi hasn’t gotten that far yet) covered in mold from old fruit set on the floorboard to ripen. Slop buckets full of garbage and old brooms and mops that are broken afixed to the wall with spider webs so dense a person could get trapped in there.

I retreated to my own house, which seemed barren by comparison.

Papi has spent the last two days in their bedroom, which is 12′ X 12′. Today he tells us he is working in the second bedroom. The kitchen will be last, and worst.

I have to go grocery shopping today. I won’t buy much.

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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  • L is for Leaving A to Z Challenge, or How I was Unable to Continue
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About this site

scmorgan grew up in the Pacific Northwest where she learned not everything is black and white. Now she lives in the jungles of the Costa Rica where shades of gray cover the full spectrum. Her work has appeared in Bluestem, Camroc Press Review, Notre Dame magazine, among others. Sometimes she blogs and sometimes she just lives her life.

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