scmorgan A Gringuita in Costa Rica: Expat Reflections from the Free Zone

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Monthly archive: August, 2007

Amazing Husbands

26/08/2007, by scmorgan 2 comments

I love living with my husband.

Alan is the sort of man who knows a great deal but is very unassuming about it all. If we are riding in our trusty old Jeep pickup for instance– and ours is the oldest car in the area to survive these hideously pot-holed roads — he will note that it appears that someone (whom he names by some nickname like Ol’ Horsehead) has the contract with the municipality for maintenance these days.

“How do you know that?” I ask.

“You haven’t seen all his crappy old dump trucks going by?”

I never notice these kinds of things.

Alan knows when a car engine sounds bad. He listens for rattles, squeaks and bangs, and is constantly under the hood checking for failure of any kind. He is the only reason our 1987 Jeep Comanche is still in running order, here at the end of the road.

He built our house and almost all the furniture in it. I always joke, “If it isn’t upholstered, then Alan made it.” But even that isn’t true anymore. He just finished a beautiful Morris chair and we had it upholstered by professionals. They could learn a thing or two from my husband about craftsmanship.

But yesterday he simply stunned me.

We are planning to make a water feature out in front of our house and he needed to know where we buried the water line some seven years ago. He asked me; I said I thought I remembered but wasn’t sure.

Some time later I saw him walking back and forth outside the window where I write. Then he went around the side of the house and I saw through our large double doors that he was holding something in his hands. Curious, I got up and went out to see what he was up to.

He had a piece of wire bent at a right angle–– looking a bit like an elongated Allen wrench–– in each hand and was walking slowly back and forth. Suddenly the two rods pointing straight out in front of him swung in toward each other crossing themselves in front of his chest.

“That’s where the water line is,” He said.

“Oh, my God, you’re a water witch,” I said. “I never knew that!”

“No. Anyone can do it. Come here. I’ll show you.”

I took the rods in my hands and backtracked his path. Then I walked slowly forward and sure enough they swung in my hands and crossed over each other when I stepped over the place where he said the water line was.

“But how do you know to do that?” I asked.

“Oh, it’s something I picked up when I was working in Alaska. Whenever we had to find a water main, so we didn’t tear it out with the backhoe, we always did this.”

Well. Who knew?

Blog contents copyright © 2005-Present SC Morgan. All rights reserved..
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Separate in Another World

04/08/2007, by scmorgan 2 comments

I recently had a discussion with a writer friend of mine about being separate. I told him that I grew up in a political family, which meant we moved a lot. And I mean we moved a lot; I went to eight grade schools in eight years. I was always the new kid, always arriving late in the school year. It gives one a certain perspective on life, I think. It certainly did me.

So I have always felt separate.

This conversation led me to think about separateness and the effects that emigrating to another country has on a person. Several months ago an editor asked me to write an article about what every ex-pat should know before moving to another country. I’m sure what she had in mind was a cheerful essay on how inconvenient it is to encounter things like siesta hour in the middle of the afternoon when your plans include shopping during those hours. I wasn’t very interested in the topic– I still haven’t written it– but I have begun to think about it.

What should every ex-pat remember?

The elementary answer is: It’s not your country, and the reason people, more often than not, forget this simple fact is buried in their cultural past.

At home we understand the circuitous routes we have to take in order to get things done. When we go to the DMV, for example, we might hate it, but we also understand the rules of the game and how to maneuver ourselves through the system. We understand our country’s laws and what is acceptable in our culture. We blend in and find our way through life without really thinking about how we do it.

Anyone who moves to a foreign country loses this ability to cope in an environment they are accustomed to. This is true no matter what level of sophistication the immigrant has. Most neophyte ex-pats enter a phase in which they are totally enchanted with everything about the place they have chosen to call home. Even the inconveniences are quaint. Call this: The Novelty Period.

It is in this phase that people write home and tell of the many wonderful things they are doing: the festivals and markets they have frequented, the funny episodes of waiting in line for a cell phone all day, and the charming neighbors they have encountered in their unconventional and enviable new lifestyle.

This phase could last for years or be very short depending on the individual and the place they have chosen to live.

At some point, though, the ex-pat will be startled out of the Novelty Phase to discover that some of those quaint customs they enjoyed at first are actually created to take advantage of them, and then anger almost always replaces infatuation. Enter the: That’s Not The Way We Do It At Home phase.

Our English speaking newspaper here in Costa Rica, The Tico Times, is filled to overflowing with these bitchy letters, all telling Costa Ricans how to run their country. The authors of these instructional diatribes are insufferable, and I always find myself thinking, but it’s not your country! And, If you wanted it like it was at home, why did you move here in the first place?

This is also the period when many ex-pats begin hanging out with each other in order to gain strength in numbers as if to say, “We are separate but equal. We belong to a group within your culture.” I have never understood this. If I wanted to remain with my own ilk I could have moved too, oh, maybe Miami, or Hawaii, or las Vegas.

If the ex-pat is lucky he eventually discovers that the system is workable, that some of it is good and some of it is bad– just like “home.” Only then, I would say, does a person begin to feel a semblence of assimilation in their new home.

I know I will never feel completely Costa Rican. On the other hand, I never felt fully assimilated in my own culture, so for me it is okay.

My mother tells the story of meeting a Mexican man, living in her hometown in Oregon. She asked him how he dealt with being an immigrant. “I dissemble,” he said.

It is how many of us survive in other cultures, and some of us in our own.

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  • L is for Leaving A to Z Challenge, or How I was Unable to Continue
  • K is for Kilo
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  • H is for Hacerse Bolas
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L is for Leaving A to Z Challenge, or How I was Unable to Continue
K is for Kilo
J is for ¡Jue Puta!
I is for Importar un Rábano
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G is for Guachimán
F is for Frito
E is for Estañon Sin Fondo
D is for Dicha
C is for calenton de cabeza.
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Remembering to Breathe
Assisted Living
January in Costa Rica
Leaving
River of Stones: 01 January 2012
Adventures in Alternative Medicine- Costa Rican Style
Write About What You Know (or, not)
Kingfisher
Quack! Quack!
Magical Realism, or Gabito Meets the Mexican Mafia
Mother's Day Quotes (Repost)
Thinking Plants and Thoughtful Gardeners
Of Quipus and Libraries
Feeling a Bit Apocalyptic
Justice of a Sort
New Book Review- Stolen World
In Solidarity, but Tired
Pebbles in the River
Cold Turkey
Breathing Like Michael Jackson
Three Little Pebbles
Book Review: The Tenth Parallel
Dog Tags
Two Little Stones
A Hummingbird Rescue
On a Morning Walk
Resolutions for the New Year
Banking on an Answer
Betancourt Memoir
No Direction Home
INS and Out
Lost and Found~
Inversion Therapy~
The Disappearing Spoon
Muse Online Workshop
Beam me up, Dr. Dish!
Haiti- Message in a Bottle~
Madman or Genius?~
Waiting at CIMA
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Some Thoughts on My Father-in-law @ CPR
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Reviewing Quoz
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Happy New Year!
That's How I feel Too, Sasha!
Earthquake!~
Pipilachas in the Garden~
Goldilocks' Rice and Beans~
Here It Comes!~
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From Foulness to Serenity~
It's a Disaster!
Foxes in the Henhouse
Let it Rain!
Seven Wheelchairs: A Life Beyond Polio
A Quasi-technotard in Oz
YES WE CAN!
In paradise There is No...
Poverty
Blog Action Day- Oct 15, 2008
International Nursing~
Vive El Arte~
Another Carlsberg Perhaps?~
The Best Beer in the World?~
Independent Thoughts~
Tanigumi- Japan Stories
Migracion- The Fast Track~
Dog Days~
Presumptive or Presumptuous?~
A Day at The Hospital~
Of Sushi and Little Girls
Lost In Transition
Cell Phone Etiquette- Hello?
Stimulating the Economy
Grandmother Always Loved You Best~
Order & Chaos
Ingrid Betancourt on BBC
Woodpeckers in the Garden
Touring France
Spring Ceaning
Muse Brain/ Monkey Brain
Morning Serenity~
My Octopus~
Dreaming of Johnee
Of Alan Bennett and Bumper Stickers~
Learning to Ignore Lonely Planet~
Camarones, Por Favor
Chirm, Wiggly, Penholder~
A Chance Meeting~
Good Junk Books~
Mother's Day Quotes~
Lost Souls & Infant Potty Training
Wollemi pines and Megabats~
Stress: My Former Constant Companion~
At Large and At Small at IRB~
A Big, Big Thinker~
Page 123~
Leap Year~
Me, Obaachan~
To MFA, or Not To MFA~
MOPT II- The Second Half of the Story~
MOPT- Half of the Story~
Dot to Dot~
Backstory in Nonfiction~
Online Writing Classes~
An Ode to the Cliché~
An Accidental Writer~
A Little Bite, Please~
The Winter Solstice~
Peace On Earth~
The Thing on My Desk~
Into the Ears of Cleaning Ladies~
Time for a Post~
Book Reviews~
Computer Poltergeists~
The Meme Challenge~
Blog Fatigue~
The Kingbird Convention
Wanted: Virus. Short-term Use Only~
Secretarial or Procurement~
Some Thoughts on My Father-in-law
LBJ's
The Vicissitudes of Growing Older
Amazing Husbands
Separate in Another World
Cleaning Up Around the Place
Breakfast With the Howlers
Red Letter Day!
Jungle Cats and the Old Revision Blues
Everything Wiggly and Poisonous
Ethnocentric Japan
Japan Notes
Headed for Japan with Pnuenomia
I Finally Get a Cell Phone
Cell Phones and How to Get Them
High winds
I.C.E.
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About this site

scmorgan grew up in the Pacific Northwest where she learned not everything is black and white. Now she lives in the jungles of the Costa Rica where shades of gray cover the full spectrum. Her work has appeared in Bluestem, Camroc Press Review, Notre Dame magazine, among others. Sometimes she blogs and sometimes she just lives her life.

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